An oasis of hospitality
It's almost a cliché to say how friendly people in a country you visited are. It's not that I expected anything different. I'm also well familiar with the extreme hospitality and generosity towards travellers in muslim countries especially. But despite all that, I'm still continuously amazed at how kind, honest and open Algerians are.
Having already had nothing but great encounters in Algiers, all this positive sentiment intensified even further upon my travels further south, in the Sahara. On the eve on my flight to El Menia, I realised that perhaps reserving a hotel room in advance might not be a bad idea, since I was going to a town in the middle of the desert and didn't really know what exactly to expect. Of the few lodging establishments I could find on the map in the town, only one had a representative that could speak French or English, was not completely full, or even picked up the phone at all. It was Hotel Tadmait, not even 200 m from the airpot gates, but what a stroke of luck that was.
The brothers that run the hotel immediately helped me settle, drove me to the centre of the town, to get some dinner and on the way started discussing the options to see the main sights around town the next day. Zakaria was all ready early next morning and after a quick coffee and a croissant, we started off at the Hassi El Gara lake, a hangout place of the flamingos. Next up was the old ksar - ruins of an old fortress overlooking the town, St. Joseph's church, his farm with a plethora of different animals and produce. Next, we waded into the desert with the 4x4 pickup and took a few exhilarating spins around the dunes. Just when I thought we were all done and that he'll drive me to the bus station next, so I could proceed to the next town, came the greatest surprise of them all.
As it was Friday - a work-free day for prayer and rest in Algeria - there was a gathering of friends and family at his brother's house. On the way, we picked up another friend at the baker's, Azzedine - an international trader in dates and olive oil and his son. At Abderrahmane's house, there were already quite a few people including the brothers from the hotel I hd met earlier Ilyes, Zaidoune and more friends. Ali, a policeman who for years worked further south in the desert, Ahmed, a young and well-travelled surgeon, originally from further up north. After introductions we proceeded to have some green tea - first round pure and strong, second with mint. Next up, a few large communal bowls of a dish, that if I'm not mistaken is called Berkoukes - similar to couscous, but with larger "pearls", with roasted chicken on top, all beautifully spiced and delicious, coupled with a few glasses of fresh goat milk. The debates were lively, entertaining and I still cannot believe how welcome they made me feel after having just met me. We proceeded to talk more later at the hotel and exchanged contacts. If you're ever in need of lodging or a guide in El Menia, don't hesitate to call.
The brothers helped me reserve a seat on the bus to Ghardaia later that night. A pickup picked me up early morning and we set forth north toward more adventures ahead.
